| 1. | So in deep water the phase speed increases with the wavelength, and with the period.
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| 2. | The limiting value of the phase speed for " m " j " 1 directly results.
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| 3. | Water waves of different wave lengths travel with different phase speeds, a phenomenon known as frequency dispersion.
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| 4. | In deep water the groups travel at a group velocity which is half of the phase speed.
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| 5. | For very long waves ( as the zonal wavenumber approaches zero ), the non-dispersive phase speed is approximately:
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| 6. | Since this shallow-water phase speed is independent of the wavelength, shallow water waves do not have frequency dispersion.
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| 7. | Another property of non-linear waves is that the phase speed of non-linear waves depends on the wave height.
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| 8. | This is a nonlinear effect, by which waves of larger amplitude have a different phase speed from small-amplitude waves.
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| 9. | Therefore, these waves are non-dispersive ( because the phase speed is not a function of the zonal wavenumber ).
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| 10. | First the surface elevation, and thereafter the phase speed, of the cnoidal waves for infinitesimal wave height will be examined.
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